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- 2024
- November 2024 - Cindy Hill "My Top Ten Favorite Orchids and How to Grow Them"
- October 2024 - Dr. Mitchell Schneider "Wonderland: Inter-generic Zygopetalums"
- September 2024 - Peter T. Lin " Mini-Catts: Delightful Cattleyas in Miniature"
- August 2024 - Gil Ho, MD "Orchids in Flight: Stanhopeas Around the World"
- July 3, 2024 - Pot Luck Dinner and Orchid Plant Exchange
- June 2024 - Tim Culbertson "Laelia purpurata, Varieties and Hybrids"
- May 2024 - Jose Carlos Lopez "The Hidden Life of Catasetinae"
- April 2024 - Ron Midgett "Kaleidoscope: Breeding with Cattleya Horace ‘Maxima’ AM/AOS"
- March 2024 - Jerry Spencer and Alex Nadzan - Repotting and Dividing Your Orchids
- Growing Orchids in the Middle of a Drought
- 2023
- May 2023 – Fred Clarke
- April 2023 – Gilberto Castro
- March 2023 – Culture Class
- February 2023 – Brandon Tam
- January 2023 – Carol Klonowski
- December 2023 - Holiday Dinner
- November 2023 - George Hatfield's Webinar on "Cultural Techniques for Growing Award-Winning Cymbidiums'
- October 2023 – Doug Overstreet
- September 2023 – Tim Culbertson
- August 2023 – Satomi Kasahara
- July 2023 – Peter Lin
- June 2023 – Jack Zhu
- January 2024 - Carol Beule
- 2022
- November 2022 – Arnold Gum
- October 2022 – Peter Lin
- September 2022 – Jerry Spencer and Ken Campbell
- August 2022 – Rene Van Rems
- July 2022 – Scott McGregor
- June 2022 – Fred Clarke
- May 2022 – Carlos Lopez
- April 2022 – Alex Nadzan & Bill Wong
- March 2022 – Tim Culbertson
- February 2022 – Alex Nadzan & Jerry Spencer
- January 2022 – Betty Kelepecz
- 2021
- November 2021 – Ron Kaufmann
- October 2021 – Peter T. Lin
- September 2021 – Tim Culbertson
- August 2021 – Carlos Lopez
- July 2021 – Fred Clarke
- June 2021 – WELCOME BACK!
- May 2021 – Gary Yong Gee (online presentation)
- April 2021 – Glen Decker (online presentation)
- March 2021 – David Haelterman (online presentation)
- February 2021 – Courtney Hackney (online presentation)
- January 2021 – Ron Parsons (online presentation)
- 2020
- November 2020 – Ken Jacobson (online presentation)
- October 2020 – Lou Jost (online presentation)
- September 2020 — Arnold Gum (online presentation)
- August 2020 – Fred Clarke (online presentation)
- July 2020 – Peter Lin (online presentation)
- March 2020 - Orchid Culture Meeting
- February 2020 – Orchid Culture Meeting
- January 2020 – Mary Gerritsen
- 2019
- 2018
- 2017
- 2016
- November 2016 General Meeting – Tom Biggart
- October 2016 General Meeting – James Rose
- September 2016 General Meeting – Marni Turkel
- August 2016 General Meeting – Harold Koopowitz
- July 2016 General Meeting – Ron Parsons
- April 2016 – Paul Tuskes
- March 2016 – Kay Klausing
- February 2016 – Ron Midgett
- January 2016 – Orchid Culture Class with Alex Nadzan and Jerry Spencer
- 2015
- November 2015 – Phyllis Prestia
- October 2015 – Satomi Kasahara
- September 2015 – Brandon Tam
- August 2015 – Alek Zaslawski
- July 2015 – David Brown
- June 2015 – Francisco Miranda
- May 2015 - Fred Clarke
- April 2015 – Peter Lin
- March 2015 – Peter Tobias
- February 2015 - Ron Parsons
- January 2015 – Kay Klausing
- 2014
- November 2014 – Arnold Gum
- October 2014 – Paul Tuskes
- September 2014 – Fall/Winter Culture Panel Discussion
- August 2014 – Phyllis Prestia
- July 2014 - James Rose
- June 2014 - Bruce Kidd
- May 2014 – Auction Volunteer Orientation Meeting
- April 2014 - Culture Class with Jerry Spencer & Merle Robboy
- March 2014 – Fred Clarke
- February 2014 - Sandra Tillisch Svoboda
- January 2014 - Dan Newman
- 2013
- 2012
- 2011
- 2010
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- December 2024 - Holiday Dinner
May To Do List
General
- Increases in day length and drastic changes in light levels this month may require repositioning of plants to avoid overexposure to sun. Although cattleyas, dendrobiums and cymbidiums thrive in high light levels, phalaenopisis, miltonopsis, masdevallias and other lower light plants can easily burn. For most orchids, one wants to have light grassy green leaves. Dark green leaves suggest too little light, while yellow colored or red tinted leaves usually indicate too much light.
- Increasing winds result in additional dust build up on your orchid leaves. This provides the perfect environment for harboring mites. Treat accordingly.
- As your flower spikes grow taller avoid changing the orchids orientation to the light to avoid flowers being twisted on the stems. For paphs, do not stake to early or the stems will not be as strong and flower will be in "nodding" position.
- May should be the height of growth and repotting season as new roots emerge from pseudobulbs or fans. Try to repot when roots are small and just beginning to emerge in order to minimize damage to soft tissues and avoid transplant shock, giving plants a head start in the growing season.
- Repot when orchids have begun to over grow their pots and/or when media has started to break down. Also consider repotting plants that have been in pots for 2 or more years and are existing, but not thriving. Repotting can revitalize and provide new vigor to such plants.
- The repotting process can be overwhelming so set aside plants and repot a few every day to ease the process.
- As you repot and divide your plants, set aside any extra divisions as donations for the POS auction or for silent auction at the meetings. It will prevent overcrowding of your benches and make someone else happy to get a piece of your prized plant.
- Follow good hygiene practices as outlined last month to minimize transmission of pests and viruses.
- During warm weather, pests and diseases can proliferate very quickly and spread throughout the collection. Carefully inspect plants and treat early to minimize spread.
- Cautiously use any pesticide, fungicide or chemical. Always use the lowest prescribed dose and avoid spraying flowers and buds. Recommended dosing for orchids can sometimes be found on the manufacturer’s website or on various orchid forums (such as The Orchid Source)
- More details on specific genera can be found on the AOS website
Indoors and Greenhouse
- Address higher light levels by adding shade cloth or painting with shading compound to avoid burning sensitive plants.
- Continue to provide good air circulation for indoor plants to discourage diseases and pests such as mealy bugs. Treat early to avoid spreading to other plants.
- Increase watering and fertilizer to accommodate the growth spurt during this period. Avoid over fertilizing to minimize root damage and growth of soft growths. Keep to one half to one fourth the recommended amount on the package.
- If you grow your plants inside and have outdoor growing space, move your plants outside for the warm season. Do this especially if your plants are crowded together or your hanging plants drip on the plants below when you water. The humidity and larger temperature differential between day and night are beneficial for your plants.
Outdoors
- Continue to monitor and control snails, slugs and pests during warm weather. They can do considerable damage to plants in short order.
- Cattleyas, oncidiums, and dendrobiums should be in full bloom and/or producing new root and bulb growth. Increase watering frequency and fertilizer as new growth is observed and repot as appropriate.
- Neofinetias can be repotted at this time especially if they are maintained in sphagnum moss.
- Repot cymbidiums now if they need it after they bloom. You should keep at least 3 growing pseudobulbs and no more than 2 back bulbs per pot.
- Catasetums are coming out of their dry winter rest. New roots should be 3-5 inches long before beginning to water. Once you start to water and fertilize, do so regularly as growth will be very rapid all summer. More details on culture can be found on Fred Clarke’s website.
The monthly To Do list is a collaboration of several POS members. We appreciate any and all comments, suggestions, and feedback on our new feature. Please send them to newsletter@palomarorchid.org!